Waverley on the Thames 2006 Part 4

Report by Martin Longhurst

Although coaches had been put on stand-by for Wednesday morning, 4 October 2006, the wind direction turned out to be westerly which made the call at Southwold a possibility. Had it been forecast as south-westerly, then the coaches would have been called in to carry the passengers to join the paddler at Harwich. As it was, over 350 joined the steamer at Southwold's four year old pier for the direct sailing to London Tower Pier.

Thursday took the steamer to Margate and Whitstable for an up-river sailing. The weather deteriorated through the day and steady rain had set in by the time the ship arrived at Tower Pier. Unfortunately, the planned arrival had to be delayed as road traffic considerations meant Tower Bridge could not be raised until after the rush hour had passed.

Waverley spent the night in the Pool of London before her timetabled sailing to Tilbury, Southend and the Thames Forts. As passengers joined the steamer, however, they were told that, owing to weather conditions, the voyage had been diverted to the River Medway. Wet and windy conditions accompanied the steamer and, in the event, precluded the call at Southend. This caused some distress to a chocolate coloured Labrador near Watford, as his master was now trapped on board, unable to return home to let him out!

Saturday dawned bright and sunny with a south-westerly breeze blowing. The steamer steamed steadily but cautiously downstream as the tide was quite low at departure.

The Millennium Dome with Canary Wharf's towers peeping over its top

The former Mersey ferry Royal Iris laid up just downstream of the Thames Barrier

Woolwich ferry John Burns waits for General VIII to tow her empty refuse barges passed

Duchess M - the current Tilbury - Gravesend ferry

Calls were made at Tilbury, Southend and Clacton on the way to Harwich. Leaving Southend the traditional three whistle blasts were sounded to mark the last call of the season.

A junior passenger had brought on this cake

Lined up at Felixstowe (from right to left) Maersk Barcelona, Cosco Hamburg, Maersk Sarnia and Cosco Ningbo

Looking back as Waverley turns for Ipswich

Clacton was reached in good time and more passengers joined the steamer for the short hop round the Tendring Peninsular. We slowed to take on the Haven Pilot as we approached the twin ports of Felixstowe and Harwich. Yet more passengers came aboard at Halfpenny Pier for the final leg up the River Orwell. Firstly, however, we steamed west up the River Stour past Parkestone Quay before turning north at Shotley, viewing the masts of the former naval training base, HMS Ganges.

Tayra takes the strain

Swinging in the River Orwell

Steaming back downstream

Just beneath the A14 Orwell Bridge, tug Tayra of Rochester took the strain ready to swing us off Cliffe Quay (Ipswich), where Waverley used to tie up. Finally, Captain Colledge berthed the paddler for the night at Harwich and her passengers were directed to 9 coaches to take them back to their several destinations.

Waverley lying at Halfpenny Pier, Harwich

On Sunday, the Thames Barrier was undergoing a test closure during the day, so departure from Harwich was set quite late, at 11.30. The timetable was to take Waverley to Clacton, Tilbury and Tower Pier and about 600 were on board leaving Clacton. There was less wind than the previous day and the sea was perfectly calm as we steamed along the flat, forgettable and featureless Essex coast. There were distant views of Richborough Power Station chimneys (on Kent's south east coast), the Kentish Flats Wind Farm, and the Shivering Sands and Red Sands Forts, not to mention Grain Power Station chimney. Note that none of these places are in Essex. However, some passengers claimed that the Essex coast shimmered in the autumn sunshine.

This young academician says he bleached his hair to recreate the funnel colours of the Caledonian Steam Packet Co.

The paddler whistles her farewell

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