Waverley to
the Western Isles 2013
Words
and pictures by Martin Longhurst (except
where stated)
In the days leading up to the start of Waverley’s 2013 season on Friday
3 May numerous people, not least her captain, had been
anxiously scrutinising the weather forecast.
All seemed lost as southerly gales were predicted at the time the
paddler was due to be rounding the exposed Mull of Kintyre.
Notwithstanding these concerns, well over 200 were ready to board the
steamer for her 0700 departure from Glasgow Pacific Quay. Captain O’Brian came on the public address
and expressed his concern but said he would proceed as far as conditions would
allow. However, both the tug to turn the
ship and the bakery van had been delayed, so we would have to wait for
them. Just as the tug arrived up the
river, the baker appeared on the quay and many trays of loaves, rolls and
sandwiches were quickly loaded on board.
About 45 minutes late, Captain O’Brian gave the order to cast off and
slowly Waverley turned her bow downstream.
It was a grey morning with spells of light rain, so it was a good idea
to go below for a hearty breakfast while the ship steamed on to Greenock for a
second pick up. Here about another
fifty joined the paddler after Captain O’Brian had made a more optimistic announcement,
suggesting there was now an even chance of getting to Oban. As we headed south to Campbeltown, there was
only a light wind although the rain kept coming and going. The Kintyre port was reached and while a
dozen more hopefuls boarded, it was announced we would keep going.
Soon we were heading west along the south coast of the peninsula,
surprisingly enjoying distant views of Northern Ireland through the murk. Finally the lighthouse on its south-western
corner was spotted and soon we were able to set course across the 25 miles of
open sea to the Sound of Islay. This
stretch of water is noted for its strong tides as the current is funnelled
between the islands of Islay and Jura.
The tide was in our favour and with the main engine turning at 48 rpm, the paddler was making 17.1 knots over the ground.
This put us in a good position to make our call at Colonsay
just ahead of Cal-Mac’s Lord of the Isles.
The latter ship could be seen approaching from Oban. The paddler was quickly tied up at Scalasaig Pier – fortunately there were no passengers to
transfer, so we could let go quickly and allow ‘Lottie’ to take the pier with
the minimum of delay.
These pictures were taken by
Adrian Sweeney from Lord of the Isles as Waverley left Colonsay. |
The sky had now cleared but the temperature dropped appreciably as we
headed for Oban ourselves, pursued by ‘Lottie’ after her own brief call at Colonsay. After
transiting the Sound of Kerrera, we swung round Oban
Bay and berthed at the North Pier.
About half those on board returned to Glasgow or Greenock by coach while
the remainder stayed on at Oban for the weekend’s sailings.
Saturday’s weather again forced the captain to warn passengers that
conditions might prevent the steamer carrying out her planned trip to Armadale (Skye) and Inverie (Knoydart). Low
cloud and drizzle were the order of the day, so most people opted to stay dry
in the ship’s accommodation. Clearing
the sheltered waters of the Sound of Mull, it quickly became apparent that
continuing our intended passage would be very uncomfortable. So the paddler turned back to the east. The alternative route took the paddler to
Loch Sunart (opposite Tobermory)
then back along the Sound of Mull, with views of waterfalls being blown
uphill! Then the paddler turned north
up the west coast of Loch Linnhe to Corran, south
down its east coast and the west coast of Kerrera
before turning north back to Oban through the Sound of Kerrera. Arrival back was about two hours ahead of
schedule.
Sunday dawned bright and sunny and an excellent early morning passage
to Fort William departing at 0800 was in prospect. Unfortunately a technical problem was
discovered which rendered the ship’s Emergency Generator unserviceable, so
regrettably she returned south without reaching Fort William Pier. Shortly after passing the Corran
Narrows the weather closed in once more with mist and rain prevailing for the
rest of the day. A large crowd was
waiting for the steamer on Oban’s North Pier in the steady rain. Captain O’Brian announced that the
afternoon’s sail had been cancelled but intending passengers could join the
ship to get out of the rain and to enjoy a Sunday roast in the Dining
Saloon. It was hoped repairs could be
completed in time for the evening cruise to Fort William at 1830 but this could
not be achieved, so the steamer remained alongside until Monday. From reports from Cal-Mac travellers, it
seems unlikely the paddler could have completed her intended Four Lochs cruise
and passage through the Gulf of Corryvreckan in any
case.
The errant generator was being tested (successfully) as we boarded the
steamer on Monday but the weather remained obdurately foul. A landing at Iona had been planned but
conditions were unsuitable. The
substitute cruise was to Tobermory for time ashore
with a deviation around Loch Linnhe on the return passage. In view of the limited visibility, passage
was made close to shore rather than down the middle of the Sound and small
deviations were made to add interest.
Finally, on Tuesday the weather finally cleared and we were able to
enjoy the cruise back to the Clyde in beautiful sunshine. Unfortunately, the load was restricted as
West Coast Motors were unable to supply more than one coach to return day
passengers from Campbeltown to Oban.
The paddler departed Oban at 0900, sounding a long blast on her whistle
as she cleared the bay. On passage to Colonsay we passed and exchanged whistle blasts with
‘Lottie.’ The call at Colonsay is primarily for compliance reasons as Waverley’s
certificate is only valid for voyages of up to 70 miles, the distance from
Campbeltown to Oban being slightly longer.
On this occasion, generally favourable tides allowed 15 minutes ashore
for those wishing to take photographs.
In addition, we picked up a cyclist bound for Campbeltown.
There were outstanding views of Islay and Jura (the latter’s Paps having been obscured on the Friday) but the current
here was against us, slowing the steamer to about 9 knots. Apart from this section, good speeds were
maintained and the steamer arrived at Campbeltown at 1700. About half the passengers disembarked here
before the paddler headed out of Campbeltown Loch and turned north up the Kilbrannan Sound around the north of Arran. Then she threaded her way between Bute and Cumbrae, past the partly demolished power station at Inverkip and finally to Greenock. There was one final surprise as the sail
training tall ship Stavros S Niarchos was occupying
Waverley’s normal berth, so she had to tie up slightly downstream of Custom
House Quay. The next day she entered the
Garvel Dry Dock at 1030 and was due to return to service at Liverpool on 1
June.
Unfortunately conditions were too poor for photography except on
Tuesday, but here are some highlights from that voyage:
The Paps of Jura
Looking
north along the Sound of Islay with Islay on the left and Jura on the right
The
Islay – Jura ferry tied up at Port Askaig
McArthurs Head on Islay
Distant
view of Arran after leaving Campbeltown