Waverley
to the Western Isles 2014 Words
and pictures by Martin Longhurst (Except where stated) The
paddler at Inverie |
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Waverley started her 2014 season on Friday 23 May, leaving Glasgow
Pacific Quay at 1000 for Kilcreggan, Dunoon and Rothesay for time
ashore. There was a good crowd on board to witness the tug Biter push the
paddler's bow round to the west before she put on steam to head downstream.
The sun did make an effort to shine but the day was mainly overcast.
There are number of crew changes including a new Chief Engineer and a new
Chief Steward.
Andy Panter, a familiar face on the
Balmoral, was Chief Officer for the first couple of days until Robin Wall took
over. A new approach to catering was being trialled and Chief Executive Kath O'Neill
was on board to oversee the implementation of the new arrangements. The
catering manager Lucy Morley was working hard as well. The intention is
to increase profitability by reducing wastage and rationalising the number of
lines. The most obvious changes to the passengers are booked hot meals,
generally with a choice of three dishes, and making sandwiches on board. As
with all new initiatives, it will take time to get things right and to decide
whether to continue them.
We saw Island Princess at Kilcreggan on her
ferry run to Gourock and the various Argyll Ferries
and Western Ferries vessels criss-crossing the
Firth.
The normal Friday schedule was followed giving an early finish (by
Waverley standards) at 1730.
Saturday was a little less busy and a little less sunny. Today
the steamer was bound for Tigbnabruaich calling at
Greenock, Helensburgh, Dunoon
and Rothesay. There were good pick-ups along the
voyage, however. We spent our time ashore at Tighnabruaich
drinking Fyne Ales in the sun on the lawn of the Westpark Hotel. Meanwhile, the steamer headed out into the
western Kyle for a committal service. We had been lucky to stay dry but there
was light rain for our arrival back at Glasgow.
Unfortunately Sunday's sail to Lochranza
started under leaden skies and a heavy shower. Eventually this passed after
Greenock but we continued to experience sunshine and showers for the rest of
the day. Nevertheless there reasonable numbers from Greenock and Largs.
Many people left us at Rothesay before we
commenced our circumnavigation of Bute.
After rounding Ardlamont Point, we headed
west into a shower before docking at Lochranza. While
we were alongside, the ferry Loch Tarbert arrived
from Claonaig. Fortunately the sun came out for the
short non-landing cruise across to view Skipness
Castle on Kintyre.
The return voyage was uneventful and berthed at Glasgow Pacific Quay
just a few minutes late.
Monday 26 May saw Waverley departing Glasgow for Helenburgh,
Largs and Dunoon for a cruise up Loch Long. There
were fewer on board than the previous day but this was hardly surprising given
the forecast of rain all day. In reality, we again encountered only
sunshine and showers. The small cruise ship Silver Explorer was moored at Greenock
Container Terminal.
The calls at the intermediate piers produced middling numbers of
passengers, with just under 300 on board for the cruise.
It was noticeable that many found different ways home rather than stay
on the Waverley until her return to the Science Centre at 2030.
The following day saw an early departure at 0700 which marked the start
of the Western Isles season. The paddler picked up more passengers at Greenock
at 0840 before heading direct for Lochranza on the
Isle of Arran. Here two passengers got off and two got on. As Campbeltown pier is not available in 2014, the next call
today was at Port Ellen on the Isle of Islay. We rounded the Mull of Kintyre on
a smooth sea under sunny skies with distant views of the Northern Irish
coast. The island port was reached at 1500 and passengers were given half
an hour ashore, apparently long enough to spend £15 on a dram
of Islay whisky!
The last part of the voyage was marred by rain, which drenched everyone
on the way to their digs in Oban, after our arrival at 2015.
Wednesday dawned grey and light rain accompanied the steamer all along
the Sound of Mull after she sailed from Oban for Armadale.
Passing Tobermory, we observed the cruise ship Marco
Polo at anchor.
Turning north after rounding Ardnamurchan Point,
the rain stopped and the sun came out. As if to celebrate, we were briefly
joined by a pod of dolphins. Alasdair Black saw the steam from The Jacobite
train through his binoculars.
Soon we saw the ferry Coruisk leaving Mallaig for Armadale, running a
little behind schedule. As we had to follow her into Armadale
Pier, speed was reduced. A French cruise ship Le Boreal was anchored off.
After our passenger exchange had been completed, Waverley steamed for Mallaig, again having to wait for Coruisk
to clear the berth. There was great excitement as she passed by because Jean
McGowan waved to us with her red and pink silk scarf and these are the photos
she took:
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After Mallaig we headed for Inverie, the location of the Old Forge, the most remote pub
on the British mainland. 45 minutes ashore were given here, with passengers
taking the chance to buy a beer, coffee or ice cream.
Following Inverie, the steamer returned to Armadale and Malliag before
heading north to Kyle of Lochalsh for the night,
arriving on time at 1900.
Thursday 29 May saw the mighty paddler leave Kyle at 1000 for Portree and Gairloch and a cruise
towards Loch Torridon. There was a good number of
people on board as she departed from Kyle and passed under the Skye Bridge.
Conditions were dry but the sky was grey and there was little wind.
Soon we reached the southern tip of the Isle of Raasay
and started passing up its western coast. We passed the new electric hybrid
ferry Hallaig as she crossed from Raasay
to Skye.
The pier at Portree had been unavailable for
the last few years but we were able to call again this year. Now we set out on
the first paddle steamer voyage between Portree and Gairloch since 1914, probably also the first passenger ship
sailing since 1939, apart from the ill-fated operation by MV Spirit of Skye in
2004. (Although Waverley visited Gairloch in 2012,
she did not call at Portree.)
It was quite misty but we were able to see the Isle of Harris at one
point, although quite faintly. The pier at Gairloch
is very substantial and sees use by cruise ships. About 200 joined at the
remote mainland port, giving a total on board of just over 500 for the cruise
which turned at the mouth of Loch Torridon.
Those going ashore at Gairloch reported that
an excellent locally brewed mild ale was available.
The return voyage to Kyle was uneventful, the steamer swinging to berth
starboard side to, just before 2000.
On Friday, Waverley headed north once again, this time heading for Raasay Pier and Portree to sail
round the Isle of Raasay. For the second day running
the day started sunny but soon clouded over. It was, however, calm and dry. A
large proportion of Raasay's population joined the
ship, including all 8 primary school pupils, giving a total on board of roughly
450.
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Waverley
going astern from Portree Pier by Douglas McGowan |
Gradually the number on board dwindled as each pier was revisited. The
paddler then started her positioning voyage to Oban by steaming to Tobermory to spend the night alongside the pier. Some 66
hardy souls were aboard for this segment and we were rewarded by superb views
of the Kylerea Narrows, the Small Isles and, in the
distance, Coll and Tiree.
The steamer tied up promptly at 2120 and her passengers dispersed to various
bed and breakfast establishments all over Tobermory.
However, the early departure at 0730 meant that few could take
breakfast ashore. Fortunately there were still sufficient stores on board to
provide cooked breakfasts, despite the high demand for catering over the
previous few days.
The first part of the voyage to Oban took place in bright sunlight but
half way along the Sound of Mull a thick bank of fog was encountered
necessitating a reduction in speed.
A good crowd joined the ship at Oban's North Pier, including a coach
load from Glasgow. Soon we were heading back into the fog, emerging into the
sun again at Lochaline. From then on, good progress
was made with excellent visibility, Tiree again being
seen in the extreme distance.
Coruisk was running late again but Waverley was permitted to berth at Armadale on time although the ferry had been due to berth
first. 15 minutes of passenger exchange ensued before our on time departure for
Inverie. We were given 30 minutes ashore at the Knoydart village, just long enough to get to the Post
Office for an ice cream. Captain O'Brian then reversed course for a
perfect sail back to Armadale and Oban, arriving at
2110.
The Western Isles season is always very popular with enthusiasts,
with many spending the whole time on board the paddler. This year we were
joined by possibly the furthest travelled 'nutter' (unless you know
different) who is Barbara Tabor, a Texan from Sequim, Washington State, USA.
Of course, you all know that Sequin is across the Strait of Juan de Fuca from
Victoria, British Columbia. Helen Dewar
knitted her some red, white and black hand warmers. |
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Sunday's sail was quite short leaving Oban at 1230 for the traditional
Four Lochs cruise. Despite a bad weather forecast there were more than 450 on
board. The departure from Oban was complicated by the presence of the large
cruise ship Astor anchored in the middle of the bay. The usual astern departure
was impossible so the bow was pushed round by the Kerrera
ferry boat so the steamer could go ahead to leave on her southerly heading.
The tidal pattern meant it was better to transit the Gulf of Corryvreckan before steaming round the Four Lochs. The Gulf
was quiet as we went through although there strange patterns on the surface of
the water. Peter and Geoffrey did a roaring trade in maps of the cruising area,
with extra supplies being printed in the Purser's Office.
The steamer arrived back at North Pier shortly after 1800. All
passengers had to leave the vessel while she was prepared for her evening
Ceilidh and Castles Cruise which departed at 1930. The music was provided by
the well-known band TrailWest. A carefully crafted
course had been devised passing six castles, including those at Ardtornish and Achadoon. This
involved passing down the Sound of Kerrera, crossing
to the Sound of Mull and finally part way up the west coast of Lismore. About
250 were on board.
Monday's cruise took the paddler to the sacred Isle of Iona - not the
scared isle, as Erin in the Glasgow Office had typed on the day's timetable. We
departed at 1130 and enjoyed a good passage along the southern coast of Mull
and anchored in the Sound of Iona at 1230. Unfortunately there was just too
much swell to effect a safe transfer to the landing boat Ossian of Staffa. So
Captain O'Brian had to announce to the disappointed passengers that a cruise
Round Mull would be substituted. A close pass of Staffa was given, with the
basalt columns around Fingall's Cave clearly visible.
Special arrangements were in force for our return to Oban as the small
cruise ship Lord of the Glens had already booked the North Pier. Therefore she
had to leave her berth briefly to allow Waverley to disembark her passengers
before retiring to anchor off Craignure, close by the
Hebridean Princess.
Lord of the Glens again had to clear the berth to allow Waverley to
pick up her passengers for the final day of the Western Isles season. This took
the steamer to Port Ellen, Tarbert (whence round trip
passengers disembarked for their coach return) and finally Largs.
The first part of the voyage was characterised by sunshine and showers.
Shortly after clearing the Sound of Kerrera the Lord
of the Isles passed inbound from Colonsay. Thanks are
due to Derek Brown and Ken Darroch who had sold over
1,800 Grand Draw tickets.
We were due to call at Port Ellen at 1330 but as we were approaching
the port, it was announced that it would not be possible to call as the rope
handlers had all gone to funeral. So course was set for the Mull of Kintyre.
There were excellent views of the Northern Irish coast and Rathlin Island between rain showers. The Mull was rounded
in the warmth of the sun as we coincided with what wind there was. Soon Sanda Island came into sight with Ailsa Craig and the
Ayrshire coast beyond.
Campbeltown Loch slipped by as we headed north up the Kilbrannan
Sound. Suddenly the steamer started zig-zagging as
the emergency steering gear was tested. It was announced that Waverley was
running about 75 minutes ahead of time with arrival at Tarbert
now expected to be 1745.
In the event, this was achieved and our Oban passengers left to join
their Dodds of Troon coach.
As the crow flies, we were now 33 nautical miles from Oban but had steamed
about 135 nautical miles. Some thought this might be Waverley's longest
non-stop voyage in passenger service.
After all had gone ashore, we were soon under way on the final leg to
Largs, where we arrived in time for people to catch the 1945 bus to Greenock or
the 1952 train to Glasgow Central.
Just before our final arrival, Purser Tony Gamblin
read out a message of thanks from the passengers to Captain O'Brian, the
officers and crew for the series of fantastic Western Isles trips.
For more photographs
of the trip see my Flickr
album.