South Coast
& Thames Part 7
Report and pictures by Martin Longhurst
Monday 27 September 2010 was
an off service day which Waverley spent at Tilbury. Tuesday saw her head off for East Kent, picking
up at Tilbury, Southend and Margate for a cruise to the North Foreland
Light. Back at Tilbury for the night,
the paddler next steamed off on the Wednesday to deepest Essex for a cruise to
the River Blackwater calling at Southend and Clacton. This time passengers were coached home as
the steamer set course for Britain’s newest pier at Southwold. She spent a rocky night at anchor off the
Suffolk port before making her approach to the pier to pick up for her direct
sail to Tower Pier. As with all piers
on sandy shelving coasts, there is always likely to be a problem with ground
swell at Southwold, but on this occasion the motion decreased as time went on
enabling the full crowd of over 300 to join the ship. After dropping her complement in Central
London, the paddler sailed light for Tilbury for the night.
Unfortunately her sojourn
here was extended as high winds prevented her planned Southend calls and the
presence of the tall ship sail training vessel Stavros S Niarchos moored
alongside HMS Belfast in the Upper Pool of London prevented the planned
manoeuvres there. Friday’s timetable
had called for a day time return trip from Southend to the Upper Pool
(non-landing) followed by a evening single show boat cruise up-river with coach
return. Since the Tower Bridge
authorities will not permit two openings within 30 minutes, the steamer
normally stems the tide while this time elapses. Unfortunately, the turn co-incided with
slack water (i.e. there would have been no tidal stream to work against to
control the vessel’s position) which, combined with the high winds and lack of
space, ruled this plan out. So in the
end all that could be offered on the day was a single evening up-river trip
with coach connection from Southend to Tilbury and from Tower Pier back to
Southend. As the paddler had to make
this trip as a positioning run anyway, these arrangements at least allowed a
little revenue to be earned.
Saturday dawned bright, sunny
– and still! So Waverley was able to
carry out the day’s plan, which involved calls at Tilbury and Southend before a
trip to view the Thames Forts. Today
was the 80th Birthday of long-time supporter John Brown who was on
board for a celebratory meal. When
Purser Jim wished John ‘Happy Birthday’ over the PA he added that today was
also the 64th anniversary of Waverley’s launch in 1946.
|
Stavros S Niarchos alongside at Tilbury on
Saturday 2 October |
There was a good number on
board, with a noticeable lessening after Southend.
Leaving Southend we encountered Kingswear Castle undertaking a Thames
Estuary cruise – this was to be the two paddlers only meeting in 2010
The sea and wind conditions
were so calm that Captain Clark was able to give us some excellent close views
of Red Sands Fort (the nearer one) and to give us a complete circuit of
Shivering Sands Fort.
|
The Red Sands Fort – note the newly
installed landing platform and aerial system on the furthest tower which is
now used by anoraks |
Shivering Sands Fort with the dredger Thames
outward bound |
|
|
Approaching Tilbury we followed MSC Carmen
bound for the Container Terminal while Rio de la Plata is outbound |
The forecast rain held off
until after Tilbury but did not become heavy until we approached Tower
Bridge. However, the thrill of seeing
the floodlit bridge opening made up for the damp!
Sunday was a windier day and
we were promised much more rain and high winds. The timetable included calls at Tilbury and
Southend before the annual paddle steamer parade with the Kingswear
Castle.
|
Revenge takes the strain as Waverley
starts to turn below London Bridge |
Note the array of aerials on the top of
Waverley’s wheelhouse |
|
|
A crane barge was moored just upstream of
the Thames Barrier |
One of Cobelfret’s new ships the Yasmine at their
Purfleet Terminal in the shadow of the QE2 (M25 )Bridge. Also present is Valentine. |
|
Regrettably the weather
forecast turned out to be rather inaccurate as there was limited rain and the wind
dropped instead of increasing. Why was
this regrettable? Because in the face
of the forecast gale, Captain Clark had no choice but to terminate the day’s
cruising at Tilbury, where we berthed at 12 noon, as the calls at Southend
would have been impossible, as would be turning in the Medway. As it turned out the worst wind (47mph at the
Isle of Sheppey Sailing Club at Sheerness) occurred at 12.01 and by 3.30 it had
reduced to Force 3, against the forecast increase (although as it was a
southerly wind these readings may have been falsely low). By then the die was cast as the Tilbury
passengers had been sent away and the Tower Pier passengers put on
coaches. Meanwhile on the Medway, some
37 passengers sailed on the KC in blustery conditions with heavy rain for the
first hour.
We left Waverley forlornly berthed at Tilbury